Black Button Citrus Forward Gin

If you’ve been hunting for a truly citrus-forward gin, this is it: Black Button Citrus Forward Gin leads with bitter and sweet orange peel, so the bright, juicy citrus is the headline rather than an afterthought behind the juniper.

Made grain-to-glass by Black Button Distilling in Rochester, New York, it starts from a refined local wheat spirit and layers in an unusual, well-judged set of botanicals — orange peel, New York State Cascade hops, star anise, cinnamon bark and a measured backbone of juniper. The result pours bright and zesty on the nose, turns pleasingly savory and spiced through the middle, and trails off on a long, lingering citrus finish. At a full 42% ABV it has the structure to hold its own with mixers and stirred drinks.

It’s at its best in a gin and tonic with a fat slice of orange, but it also lifts a Tom Collins, a citrus highball or any cocktail that wants its citrus turned up. Pour it over plenty of ice and let the orange do the talking.